Arnaldo Rivera Ravera 2018

The nose is intensely smoky, with raspberry and strawberry aromas. The calcareous white soils produce beautiful fruit aromatics, whilst the due-south sun-facing aspect add considerable depth to the fruit and ripeness to the firm tannins. Directness of fruit is also brought forward by a degree less oak than their other Cru wines, with some smaller format wood — but none of it new. It’s sleek and stylish, a lifted wine that’s taut and spicy with fine-grained tannins. There’s tension and persistence here, with a long and elegant finish. A long and profound Barolo to approach now or cellar a good while, the Ravera is a classic.